As may be expected from a former child star, justin bieber clothes has received many a fashion transformation through the years. He’s done quiffed hair and a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented using a floppy fringe and a suit. But while some of his tries to toughen up happen to be met with derision, the most recent part in the Biebvolution is in fact bang around the fashion money. There were ripped jeans. There were oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts with all the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen plenty of layering – and plenty of raw edges.
Not everyone gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s reaction to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) however the latest incarnation of Bieber ties right into a mood that is sweeping through menswear – and may be arriving within your wardrobe soon.
Simply speaking: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge having a tracksuit top and a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You might dub it a hot mess for guys, but the single thing you might never refer to it as is hipster – manicured beards must be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore for the teen awards, has become integral on the boost in popularity of denim and also jeans which can be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the sort of look which makes parents eyeroll and say: “You purchased that? Do want me to put proper hems on those?”, it has legs. Elsewhere around the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers that was roughly shut down on the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a kind of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing occurring; close up, the holes over these knits are layered more than a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a kind of anti-luxury luxury – is there in all of the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy certainly is the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a great reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, one of the more in-demand photographers in vogue, these pictures have got a typical masculine rawness. Within a short video to accompany this shoot, you may even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for that latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is that this Man?, even though the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff was throughout one of the more talked-about moments in the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, that has been located in a Chinese restaurant variously described as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that have been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like they had just presented of bed. Most of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, as in the parcel delivery service); even show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a switch on the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots as well as a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in fashion is simply set to continue: once the show, one among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, would be to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is yet another of your buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has become backed up by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel as if a nerdy undertake Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, but not.
The truth is, if all else fails, the real key to this look can be a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for males. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for females (see British Vogue’s December issue, through which several tracktops are featured as part of the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a lttle bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, as it ticks the 1990s box – along with the dexqpkyy16 has become the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the alternative of all of the justin bieber clothing that has been the headline news in menswear for the past number of years. And finally, it’s an easy task to chuck on, doesn’t appear like you’ve made an effort but suggests that you know what’s taking place. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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