The world of RC has numerous different facets; there’s really something for all. One of the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering will be the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned in terms of driving sliding is superior to grip, more power does not necessarily mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is superior to rubber. So when 3Racing sent over their Axial SCX10, I had to scoop one as much as see what every one of the hoopla was using this type of drifter.
WHO Can Make It: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any degree of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Simply How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for easy learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning in front of the motor or about the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?A lot of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips off the roller bearing
This drifter has a lot choosing it; well manufactured, lots of pretty aluminum and rolls in in a very reasonable price. Handling is useful also after you become accustomed to the kit setup, and it also accepts an extremely number of body styles. There’s also a ton of tunability for those that want to tinker, and this car should grow along when your skills do.
The D4’s chassis is actually a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It has cutouts at the base for your front and rear diffs to peek through as well as a bazillion countersunk holes. A large number of can be used as mounting things such as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are actually a good number of left empty. They can be helpful to control chassis flex, although not with all the stock top deck; an optional one must be purchased. The layout is similar to a typical touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and finally the back bulkhead/ suspension. Everything is readily accessible and replaceable with only a few turns of some screws.
? Apart from a number of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is very similar to a touring car’s. An individual A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are employed, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to improve them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to manage camber and roll as the front uses an interesting, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This product allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and permits some extreme camber settings.
? A very important factor that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is the serious volume of steering throw they already have. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and also as near the edges in the chassis as possible. This generates a massive 65° angle, enough to manipulate the D4 in even the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend the majority of their time sideways, I wanted an effective servo to take care of the ceaseless countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Without needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I would like it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 works with a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A huge, 92T 48P spur is connected to the central gear shaft, in which the front and back belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high on top of the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the power to the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to permit utilizing a variety of different wheel and tire combos.
? To provide the D4 a certain amount of beauty, I prefered 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. This can be a beautiful replica with this car and included a slick list of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how to paint it, having said that i do remember a method I used a while back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white on the underside, but painted the fenders black on the exterior. After everything was dry, I shot the exterior using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the ultimate result … plus it was easy. That’s good because I’m an incredibly impatient painter!
In The TRACK
For this particular test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I found myself heading there to do a picture shoot for one more vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and obtain some sideways action?
The steering on the D4 is quite amazing. When I mentioned earlier, the throw is a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from your parts. The CVD’s can change that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Even though it does look just a little funny together with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a fantastic job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the proper direction. This can be, partly, thanks to the awesome handling from the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is just not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I am aware that sounds odd, but when you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your own drifter, you are able to control the angle of attack and the sideways motion through any corner. I found Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to do exactly that make controlled, smooth throttle changes in alter the angle of the D4 when and where I needed. Sliding in a little shallow? Add more throttle to obtain the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up somewhat as well as the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a point of ? nesse, along with the Novak system is ideal for just that. I did need to be a little bit creative together with the install in the system because of only a little space around the chassis, but overall it determined great.
After driving connected touring cars for a time, it will take a little getting used to knowing that a vehicle losing grip and sliding is the proper way round the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you buy it, it’s beautiful. Having a car and pitching it sideways via a sweeper, all the while keeping the nose pointed in at lower than 2 or 3 inches through the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of control thing, along with the D4 will it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you are as if you need more of something anything there’s a lot of items to adjust. I just enjoyed the auto using the kit setup and it was just a point of a battery pack or two before I was swinging the rear around the hairpins, across the carousel and to and fro throughout the chicane. I never had the chance to strap battery in the diffuser, but that’s something I’m getting excited about.
There’s not much you could do to damage a drift car they’re not really going everything that fast. I did, however, have an issue with the leading belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top level deck. During the initial run, it suddenly felt such as the D4 acquired a little drag brake. I kept from it, looking to overcome the situation with driving, but soon was required to RPM Traxxas slash parts it into actually check it out. In the build, the belt slips in to a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is supported by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted items like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square around the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, if the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a lengthier screw with several 1mm shims to space the bearing out a tad bit more. Problem solved.